The Abacos – Dream Destination for Stand-Up-Paddleboarders

Abaco has long been called the Boating Capital of the World. The turquoise waters of the Sea of Abaco are usually calm and navigable, and the chain of small islets and cays that line the Atlantic side, with their quaint colonial charm, make for fun, easy island hopping. It has also been called the Bone Fishing Capital, as well, with countless miles of nutrient rich mangrove creeks and pristine flats to breed and feed these gray ghosts that are found here in healthy abundance. Miles and miles of thriving coral reef make it a destination for divers, and the consistent Atlantic swell that breaks rhythmically against its eastern shore has drawn some of the world’s top surfers. 

Now, Abaco is emerging as a premier destination for today’s fastest growing water sport; this diverse marine environment makes it ideal for stand-up-paddleboarding (SUP). It’s a fun new way to explore all that Abaco has to offer. You can glide silently through winding mangrove creeks and observe wildlife undisturbed, or challenge yourself paddle fishing, and take a chance at landing one of Abaco’s infamous gray ghosts. Experience the full power of the ocean paddle surfing on one of Elbow Cays famed surf breaks, or enjoy pristine serenity gliding along a calm, shallow bank on the Sea of Abaco. There are coral reefs a short distance from any Atlantic beach, so bring your mask and fins, because the thriving coral reef and its colorful inhabitants should not be missed. Stand-up-paddleboarding is a versatile sport that can be enjoyed by people of all ages and skill levels. If you are new to this, it is easy to learn, and the calm waters of the Sea of Abaco are the perfect place to start. Get a lesson or two so that you can master the basics and let the adventure begin. 

Lubbers Quarters is a small sparsely populated cay just west of Elbow Cay. It is famous  as the hide out of the late outlaw Cracker P and for the restaurant that now carries his name. It is also known as the home of mythical creatures with bird like features and backwards feet called Yahoes that dwell in the islands many caves. Currently there are other local residence who are gaining notoriety, the school of hungry Bull Sharks that hang out on the south end of Lubbers. These pugnacious giant’s can be seen cruising the waters at the south end of the island waiting for an easy meal. 

Michael Schreiner is a local fisherman and long time resident of Lubbers Quarters. Michael does deep sea fishing charters, fishes commercially and sells fresh fish locally. He’s been cleaning his fresh catch daily at his home dock for many years. The intelligent Bull Sharks have learned that they can find an easy meal at Michael’s dock. There are a dozen or more sharks the hang out here averaging 11’ in length. They are almost navy blue in color with long, stealth pectoral fins and impressive girth. These apex predators exude power, strength and intimidation. They put on quite a show when Michael begins cleaning fish and the feeding frenzy begins.

I’ve been spearfishing my whole life and have had my share of terrifying encounters with bull sharks. I’ve been chased on top of the jagged reef, had to give up precious hog snapper and even seen them bite at our boat engine to make it clear we needed to get out of their territory. They are certainly one of the wild animals I fear the most. Paddle boarding in Lubbers we’ve avoided Michel’s dock like the pelage until one afternoon I decided that it was time to face my fear and become one with the Bull Sharks that have been scaring me for so many years. 

My boyfriend Jesse thought I was crazy when I suggested it but non the less hoped on his board next to me and we headed south following Lubbers rocky shore line. As we approached the south end Jesse said “don’t look now we’re being followed”. I turned to see a curious Bull Shark surface, head above water, following us at about 25 feet. We were slightly relieved as you could sense no aggression only curiosity and we paddled on towards Michele’s dock. Shortly after we approached the dock more curious Sharks arrived. They cruised under our boards checking us out hoping we had come to offer them a free meal. It was immediately apparent that they were not interested in us as something to eat, as their demeanor was very relaxed and non aggressive. As we became more comfortable with the Sharks we would reach out and touch them with our paddles. 

The truth is that most of the things we fear are not going to hurt us. It is empowering to face those fears. Clearly my fear of Bull Sharks is well founded, they attack more humans each year than any other shark. Still it felt great to paddle with them and in truth our chance of being attacked was slim. I know many people who are afraid of the ocean. They let their fear keep them from experiencing all the beauty, fun and adventure the Ocean has to offer. Don’t let the silly things that scare you hold you back, face you fears and make everyday an adventure.